Zeros Thoughts

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Givenchy Fall 2000s Ready-To-Wear Collection: McQueen’s Stylistic Rebellion

“I’m a cliché”, a punk ballad plays in the background as models strut the runway. Military colours of army green and purple dominate the runway. It’s almost as if the models are soldiers marching from the form they walk in. While the outfits act as uniforms for these soldiers. These are some of the personal hypotheses I formed through my observation of the fashion show. Multiple suggestions and preconceptions could be derived through the various creative direction devices employed throughout this collection. There was a gothic air that seemed to envelop the stage and the show.

The styling of the garments employed the new age design language and 80’s style devices being introduced during that period to elevate the looks of a simple ready-to-wear collection. The main takeaway from this show was the styling, above all else, McQueen demonstrated to all in attendance the power of a properly styled garment. I am currently in a period of heavy experimentation with the styling of my outfits with a key focus on accessories, fabric manipulation and material. Therefore, this collection deeply resonated with me. I admit it’s not a jaw-dropping collection, however, that adds to its beauty of it. My understanding of the concept of achieving great looks through styling is reinforced.

A few styling decisions caught my eye throughout the show. The way the tartan patterned top was tied at the chest gave an outlandish appearance which perfectly matched the ring skirt being worn as well as the individualistic nature of a goth. Likewise, the metal arm bracelet seen throughout the show was an accessory that raised the style of each outfit it was paired with. The metal arm bracelet gave me a sense of solidarity with the models though not all of them wore one. Similarly, I enjoyed the use of 3-quarter gloves on the models on specific models, it was almost like a finishing touch on each outfit it was used. The blazers were all brilliantly sewn and presented, which gave a sexy yet refined nature we find common in McQueen’s work.

Purple is normally aligned with ideas of luxury and royalty. Although, in other scenarios, it can be interpreted as a symbol of unity or a political representation. With the use of purple in this collection I interpreted it as a symbol of unity in the show amongst models and McQueen’s ideology, whilst on the store front I am sure it is to be interpreted as items of luxury and desire. I do find the number of looks in this collection unnecessarily high, however, I do understand the need for a brand like Givenchy during that period to make sales. Another fact about this collection I adore is this collection stuck to the nature of ready-to-wear in its absolute as every garment is wearable and most materials used are long-lasting. This satisfied my desire for utility amongst clothes in general and specifically towards big collections where you’d normally expect wasteful production.

In more than one way I feel this collection is a reflection of myself, hence my desire to document and research it. I hope this drives you to take a closer look at yourself and your attitude toward your wardrobe.

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Genève Florance: Fashion’s Problem Solver

Genève Florance is a designer that has recently risen above the surface with the release of their first collection “Comment puis-je perdre en suivant Dieu” which translates to “How could I lose while following God”, a song that inspired the direction and naming of their collection.

Florance’s debut collection is a story of grief, rebellion, and acceptance. I was sold by this 20-year-old’s work the moment I first laid my eyes on it. Their ability to manipulate a garment’s texture and tell a story through each piece pulled me further in as I dug deeper into their work. Florance has stated that their love for fashion stems from a desire to solve problems. On the about section of their site, it reads “Playing with structure and flows through the use of knitwear and tailoring”. Through this collection we see a gap bridged with the symbiosis of knitwear and tailoring, as such, a problem solved. I loved this quote because it aptly reflects what their work represents, though I’m sure that isn’t the only problem Genève seeks to fix.

I would describe the collection as a gothic rebirth, though that phrase isn’t enough to encapsulate the essence of this collection. This collection traverses the history of Genève and their time on earth, from their catholic birth to their queer realization. The contrast between acceptance and rejection was prevalent throughout this collection.

One thing I personally love was their ability to use different fabrics to create one cohesive look. This makes more sense when you understand the designer’s passion for the concept of contrast vs form. Likewise, I enjoyed the religious symbolism depicted in pieces, such as the Chapel Suit and Priestess Dress.

What does your creative process look like when you approach a project?

I go back and forth between structure and form deciding which aspects I want to incorporate into a garment. This collection originally started off as a portfolio, a means to create tangible work that would contribute to my efforts to get a job in the industry.

Would you say growing up in a catholic household impacted your creativity?

Yes, this whole collection is a representation of that and more. The battles I encountered while finding myself, a queer, non-binary individual in a strict french catholic household. It was difficult navigating and I do have a hate-love relationship with religion due to that, however, this collection was born out of it. It symbolizes me coming into my own after fighting my past self about my desire to be loved by God. A breakthrough.

If you had to describe your collection in one word, what would it be?

‘Release’, it’s difficult deciding on one word but as of today that is the word I would use to describe it.

As someone who emphasizes matters of sustainability, what are your thoughts on the current state of the industry?

I live off my craft, so I understand more than most the argument of ethics vs reality. Yes, there may be instances where I won’t be able to employ 100% eco-friendly practices, but I do believe I will reach a point where that will be feasible. However, the industry does need to significantly reduce its waste and with each person, it becomes more of a necessity. Stop the fast-fashion hauls and invest in quality clothing. The appreciation for clothing and craftmanship is what’s missing. Saving up for months for one piece to wear until it can’t be worn again. The romance of tailoring needs to be revived.

What does this collection mean to you?

A clean slate. I can say “I went, I did it”. I created a collection in a month by myself at the age of 20. It is a dream come to fruition. The following thought is “what can we do next?”.

What is next for Genève Florance?

I want to get better at crafting and honing the skills I have. Designing is the easy part; crafting is what I want to explore. I want to explore the facets of creating, metal work, shoemaking, jewellery making and the likes. Making things is what I love.

Genève Florance’s collection is available on their site now.

Genève Florance’s Instagram Handle: @geneveflorance

Riley Kojima’s Instagram Handle (Photographer): @rileykojima

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Alexander McQueen “Golden Shower” SS 1998 R-T-W

“Golden Shower”, is a vile and erotic phrase aptly used for Alexander McQueen’s 1998 Spring/Summer collection. The title was conjured by Lee in direct response to the sponsors of the show American Express and the upcoming launch of their new Gold Card in the UK. However, it was later replaced by the title, “Untitled”, due to Golden Showers’s sexual and grim connotations.

The theme, however, did not change, Lee as defiant as he is to the status quo sent out piss-coloured invitations hinting at an even more pissy event. In my opinion, this show was one of the best physical manifestations of an idea I’ve ever seen. This show revealed the heights McQueen could reach with the help of money. Located at the Gatliff Road warehouse in London’s victorian neighbourhood, it was an odd yet unsurprising place to host a fashion show by Lee’s standards. The set design was made up of perspex glass stages filled with water for the models to walk on which displayed Lee’s use of elements.

Sounds of rain, thunder and lightning rang across the room, suddenly the room went quiet and a tune of metal clanging introduced us to models dressed in provocative and bizarre clothing. I enjoyed how the women specifically walked in the show as though they were meant for it. The masterful tailoring of McQueen could be seen in every look that touched the stage. Various looks were to my liking which says a lot considering the fact that I am not a fan of vibrant clothing, especially when yellow is used.

Look 2 did however catch my eye despite that, the use of barely any fabric for a top created a top to remember, both when layered and alone. Likewise, look 3 also caught my attention as the shades of yellow and material used for the trench coat left me satisfied. Look 26 was hands down my favourite look from the styling to model selection, I am not much of a formal dresser but the pinstripes on that look coupled with the tie created an air I’d never felt before.

I noted the use of Shaun Leane’s accessories again, specifically his silver jawbones and silver spine corset. Both pieces nodded at Lee’s fascination with human anatomy and his goal to metamorphize humans. I believe through his use of said jewelry, the masks and horns, he wanted to create new beings or at least strip them of their human identity. In the same manner, we were met with masculine appearing men wearing heeled sandals and tube tops flipping the roles as women appeared to hold the power.

It’s safe to say that the next half of the show left everyone’s jaw dropped. The music changed, black vapours appeared in the clear perspex glass and there was a shift as a downpour of golden rain ushered a new wave of models and looks. Makeup sloppy, outfits all white, it was a rebirth. To my understanding, it was a contrast like no other, Corruption versus Honesty, a sick game that came to unfold before my very eyes. In the latter half, Looks 75, 95 and 100 were my favourite. Each look simple yet effective, a case where the clothes spoke for themselves.

Everything about this show screamed defiance, specifically well-thought and executed defiance. Gender Identity, Gender Roles, Purity and Corruption were all tackled in one show. This was the first time we’ve seen so many looks from Lee, yet he served us well. This show gave us a glimpse at the depth of Lee’s creative abilities and limits, it displayed Lee’s ability when given resources to work with and further improvement as a result of it. Additionally, this was the debut of one of the greatest supermodels in the world Gisele Bündchen, who rose to her position through McQueen’s support.

These factors are my reason for documenting this show as one of his most iconic ones, even if only personally, I loved it to its core.

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Slow Fashion: A Movement

Fashion production makes up 10% of human carbon emissions. Let that sink in, humans produce 34 billion tonnes of carbon emissions each year, of which this industry alone makes up 3.4 billion tonnes of it. I have recently been doing a deep dive into sustainability as opposed to my previous surface-level practices, from which I stumbled upon the term “slow fashion”.

Slow fashion in simple terms is the opposite of fast fashion. Think buying less, higher quality garments, as well as ensuring conducive work environments for labourers and fair wages. It encapsulates a multitude of things and is ever-growing in nature. The term was coined in 2007 by Kate Fletcher and possesses 3 main traits: taking a local approach, having a transparent production system, and making sustainable and sensorial products. At the forefront, slow fashion tackles all facets of the supply chain, from the environment to the workers and the animals. Slow fashion prides itself on producing trendless garments of high quality that result in longer lifespans for clothes and less consumption.

In these times of ever-increasing trend cycles and consumption due to the covid pandemic, I do feel it’s necessary for each of us to educate ourselves on this topic. Trends are said to be a big contributor to the opposition to fast fashion’s business plan, though that is not the case. It is actually “micro-trends” that result in brands like Shein’s being valued at $100 billion. Microtrends, trend cycles lasting 3-5 months pushed predominantly by fast fashion brands result in overconsumption and poor purchase practices. To reduce waste within the industry we must disengage from microtrends.

“No ethical consumption under capitalism”, a quote misused since its inception has become an excuse for individuals to justify their purchases. Now, this is by no means an attack but a friendly suggestion, I employ you as an individual to investigate how you can better contribute to your environment. It could be something as simple as taking up thrifting, upcycling garments, investing in your local designer, and saving your money to purchase better quality clothes that will last you longer. The next time you’re about to make a questionable purchase ask yourself these questions: “How often will I wear this?”, “Does this go with my wardrobe?”, “What can I style this with?”. With these simple actions, you drastically increase your awareness and responsibility.

Climate change is the greatest burden to humanity this century and if I can reduce my carbon footprint to reduce that by even the slimmest margins I will. I urge you to do the same.

Site for further research:

https://goodonyou.eco/

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Grails Part 2: D&G Military Flight Jacket and Pants

At this point, I intend to make this grail collection a series. Every few years it seems as though military and bondage styles and clothing become trendy again. We’re taking it back to 2003 with this collection. Dolce and Gabbana had just released their Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter collections. It was immediately caught on, the use of military and S&M themes caught the eye of the public and significantly lifted the status of the brand.

I personally first learnt of this collection in 2014 through a youtube video, though I don’t remember the specific one there were a pair of flight pants from that collection that caught my attention. Every accessory and minute detail served to exemplify these pants. The chain links, a gunmetal belt, metal hardware and a detachable flap over the groin area all added to the beauty of this piece finished with a heavy military fabric. It was simply a work of art that aligned with my militaristic style interest. The last time the pants were sold to my knowledge they went for 1200 US dollars.

In the same manner, I came to learn of a flight jacket from the same collection. I instantly fell in love. Nylon-made with a padded interior, two frontal pockets, one back pocket, adjustable high neck and straps on the wrist. To finish it off it possessed a boxy oversized fit. These two pieces from the collection serve as grail pieces I highly covet. Most recently sold between the price ranges of 300 to 500 US dollars. Though there are multiple pieces in the collection I would love to own, I decided to limit it to these two gems. Utility in effect can be thought to be the base requirement of clothing but I find it to be the concept that sets aside garments and the foundation of my style. Consequently, my interest in these pieces can be thought of as second nature as these two pieces possess a high level of utility. Similarly, the quality of the pieces contributes to my love of it. Longevity is one of the best things you can derive from a clothing item. Both items would serve as good staple pieces in anyone’s wardrobe.

After learning of this collection I watched the runway show which gave me the feeling of restraint yet release. I pictured myself in those pieces and the fashion industry as my warzone. Despite my current hatred for Dolce and Gabbana due to their past I have to say that this collection was executed masterfully. I urge you to look into these collections personally.

What are some of your grails? Let me know in the comments.

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Alexander McQueen “La Poupée” SS 1997 R-T-W

“La Poupée”, McQueen’s subsequent show after his “Dante” collection was distorted beauty personified. Inspired by Hans Bellmer’s photographs of mutilated and reassembled dolls. McQueen’s runway was all about fictional bodies. To my understanding, McQueen’s collection was a critique of the limitations of the human body, both presenting those limitations and merging them with reality through the said presentation. In the same manner, McQueen also addressed the fascism of fashion and the distortion of space by heterotopia.

The set design was presented in a rectangular space where the floor was made of water, aiming to look like a mirror floor. The mirror represented an unreal reflection of reality, a fictional space separated from the real world. The mirror brought reality to the unreal while connecting all the spaces. As a result, a heterotopia was created, a world within a world. We have seen from Lee’s previous collections, his interest in fantasy and his desire to provoke.

The use of the cages on some of the models represented the fascism found in fashion as Lee explained and the desire for the industry to dictate what others wear. I particularly loved this reference as it reiterates the Anti-fashion mindset McQueen worked with throughout his career.

Through the set design and collection, we see the common traits of experimentation, romance and provocation. Experimentation through metallic clothes, sculptured facial accessories, etc. Romance through his love of nature at the end with the cage of butterflies as his last look. Provocation originating from the inspiration of Hans Bellmer and the dismemberment and reconstruction of dolls.

My favourite looks are as follows: Look 2, 3, 22, 43, 49, 52, 70 and 71. Unlike his previous collections, this collection was bigger which allowed for a wider audience to pick from the simple to the sophisticated.

As I watched the show, I found myself falling in love with the way each look was styled and the similar yet different styles created. I specifically enjoyed the accessories employed, such as; the silver makeup used on the model’s eyes, the sculptured facial accessories, metallic clothing, long hair, a single sharp nail on each of the model’s hands and the zips located on odd places of specific clothes. McQueen’s continued use of the bumster was a classic alongside his cast of Kate Moss, an old friend and Debra Shaw. Both models he has seen to have used previously.

McQueen has improved his creative direction with every collection, from small details to the large. Another aspect I enjoyed was the way the models moved, exaggerated movements that made it uncomfortable to watch. Despite this collection being relatively simple, in the sense that there were more toned-down looks within the collection, his audience loved the looks. In the same manner, so did his customers and the collection sold really well. Consequently, due to the sales and reception created from the show, McQueen’s future appointment at Givenchy as creative director was solidified. In summation, these actions resulted in La Poupée being one of McQueen’s most iconic shows.

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C2H4 Los Angeles: The Future Of Humanity

C2H4 is a utilitarian streetwear brand unlike any other. I felt inclined to shed light on this brand due to its most recent campaign titled “Future City Uniform” for FW21. This retro-futuristic take is not an unpopular approach, however, I haven’t quite seen it done like this before. In this campaign, C2H4 displayed their creative capabilities to not only create garments never seen before but also direct a campaign that perfectly reflected its ethos.

C2H4 was founded in 2014 by Chinese designer Yixi Chen. The name of the brand was derived from the chemical compound ethylene. Yixi Chen and her team see themselves as chemists because chemists mix together compounds to form a new chemical compound or reaction. In the same way, she believes that they mix together different media and cultures and create garments out of them. Yixi Chen sees fashion as a passion, though she doesn’t believe herself to be a designer. Her real goal is to use her designs and creations to push humanity forward and fashion is her medium to achieve that. I don’t believe I have ever come across a designer with such a mindset, which made me come to love her and her work more.

Likewise, C2H4 manages to employ utility into each of their collections with an eye for “wearable devices” while exploring new functions. From the straps and concealed pockets to their creative prints, they are able to create a long-term and sustainable brand. As a result, you witness a synthesis of utility and art.

C2H4 is a brand that has gained renown previously due to its futuristic garments and its ability to create new designs from old pieces. A prime example would be the collaboration that first caught the industry’s eyes, their collaboration with Kappa, titled “Undecayable” where they upcycled kappas clothing and added their own utilitarian and futuristic twist to it. This collaboration catapulted them to “giant” status despite flying under the radar not so long ago.

I cannot talk about C2H4 without mentioning some of their past collaborations. It seems as though every collaboration they have is successful. Namely, their Mastermind Japan collaboration is extremely popular and a favourite of mine. Although, they have continuously collaborated with vans as well. If you don’t check out the brand, I urge you to at least look into these two brand collaborations.

C2H4 has a story behind each collection motivated by science and influenced by different cultures, movies and media. This results in innovative creations despite the restriction of labels such as “menswear” or “utilitarian”. They have had collections based on future timelines, gravity, and even human enhancement. There is no limit to their future exploits, for which I plan on sitting front row to watch.

References:

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STRONGTHE: A Proponent of Change

Strongthe is a menswear brand launched in 2019 by Strong Theveethivarak, a London-based designer from Thailand. Only three years old, this brand is a fresh take on menswear. Strongthe is a brand that evokes comfort through clothes. In the three collections released since their induction, they have all managed to speak on health matters through exact tailoring and a healing spirituality inspired by the cross of London and Thailand experiences.

Health and design can be found at the core essences of this brand. In their FW20 collection titled “Lucky”, the pieces were a reference to the rituals practiced for good fortune in Thailand and a statement on health as the designer wanted to speak on finding strength in uncertain times relating his clothes to his relationship with illness. The statement was an aim to reinvent illness with optimism through clothing. The tree knots found throughout the pieces represented Thailand’s belief in spirit trees and their ability to bring good fortune to those that pray to them. Likewise, the draping and tailored wrapping of clothes can be likened to hospital wear used to wrap yourself and increase comfort. My favourite look is look 1 with the sacred tree top due to its play with colour and tailoring between the top and bottom. Although, I’d most likely wear look 7 out of all of them, as a result of its darker-toned jack and pants and Swarovski jacket detailing.

Now, what I respected after my analysis of this collection and the brand as a whole was that despite its inspirations, the wearability and accessibility of the clothes were not diminished. The sharp tailoring of the clothes and the details of the accessories worked in tandem with one another to suit both consumers interested in the background and others that just appreciated the design. Similarly, one aspect this menswear brand possesses that many older brands lack is “playfulness”, the ability of a brand’s ethos to possess such qualities without taking away from its quality of work is rarely seen. This feeling is one of many traits that will set them up for success.

In their two-part collection for 2021, Strong addressed the feelings Thai people and people, in general, had about the future. “You Tell Me”, looks at the various ways in which Thai people tackled the pandemic, through fortune-telling, divinity, and the mystics. It poses a question of essentially “What is this?” to the world. Notable features such as; tailoring that accentuates the body can be seen throughout his collection, talismans employed by his home to enhance luck mainly or improve other aspects of life can be seen as accessories in the collection.

“Bless You”, the second part of the collection continues this theme. We see greater use of Thai culture, from traditional attire to other practices like palmistry in the form of differently shaped and cut sleeves. Knotting dominates the collection as his previous ones which are seen to somewhat restrict the wearer though resulting in another form of freedom. My favourite pieces from the two-part collection have to be the teardrop shirt, crossed trousers and stone padded suit. In contrast, I’d most likely wear Look 7 of “You Tell Me” for its smart yet loud appearance.

Strongthe is not afraid to blur the lines of society’s definition of masculinity, along with their focus on textures, tailoring and culture they are one of my favourite upcoming menswear brands. Amongst the leaders of newly defined menswear, Strongthe will slowly but surely rise through the ranks. This article is for those of you like me, tired of the stagnancy of menswear, there is hope. You can find their website here.

References:

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Alexander McQueen A/W 96 “Dante”

“Dante”, Alexander McQueen’s was shown on March 1, 1996, in the ruined Christ Church in East London. McQueen’s eighth collection is titled “Dante” after Dante Alighieri and inspired by his famous work Divine Comedy. The narrative poem represents the soul’s journey towards God and the stages needed to be passed to attain salvation as taken from Roman Catholic theology and philosophy. Dante’s location was also connected to the designer of the church Nicholas Hawkson and his rumoured connection to Satanism which added an eerie appeal Lee could not escape.

“Dante” was also inspired by Don McCullin’s photographs taken during the Vietnam War. The show was a commentary on religion and war while being dedicated to Lee’s long-term friend and mentor Isabella Blow. McQueen stated, “I think religion has caused every war in the world, which is why I showed in a church.” Those words stuck with me as I looked back to the state of society and religion’s hand in shaping it. I remember the crusades, the thirty-year war, the middle east and 9/11. I especially respect Lee’s commentary on such a controversial topic considering his strict religious background growing up and his family’s connection to Spitalfields. War and Religion are synonymous and inseparable in that respect. However, it is important to note, this show does not romanticize death, rather it creates the awareness of it through clothes.

As I watched this show I experienced a multitude of feelings, such as; fear, joy, surprise and happiness. This was the first instance of McQueen’s input regarding the art direction of a space. From the candles to the cross-style stage, to the skeletons littered in the church, the devil was in the details. There was a common colour code, black represented death and mourning, white/bone represented the symbol of purity and lilac represented the victorian aspect of half-mourning.

If you look closely at the styling for each look, there was a specific focus on hair designs. Headpieces and Hairstyles took center stage. Particularly braiding done on some of the model’s hair in reference to the military and the other frayed hairstyles.

Additionally, I noted that lace was the principal fabric used throughout the collection. I took this as a naughty spin on the traditional garments and their presentation. The high-quality lacework and embroidery in this collection propelled Lee to the forefront of the fashion industry’s gaze.

From the beginning of the show to the end, you could see the dark romance of everything. The organs played to generate a still and mournful atmosphere, the interaction between the female and male models which gave of flirty energy, the black lace that was grim yet hot.

Regarding details, a few details did catch my eye in this show. The military jacket with gold detailing symbolized war in a beautiful and raw form. In the same manner, you can see the high-level tailoring employed in the garment which raises it even more. I perceived it as a preparation for war.

Similarly, I saw Lee’s interpretation of denim acid wash on menswear which was coincidentally his first menswear release. I believe this contributed to the wearable appeal of the collection.

Detailing as I previously mentioned was crucial in the art direction and fame of this collection. The crown of thorns by Philip Treacy had to be my favourite headpiece along with the antlers which were co-designed by Shaun Leane. This was McQueen’s first use of the crown of thorns but it would not be his last. The thorns to me were a representation of the pains Lee bore in creating the collection.

When I first saw the antlers I interpreted them as horns of demons Dante saw during his journey through hell. Although those interpretations may not have been Lee’s intention, I believe it is left to each individual to decide their interpretation of it. I can hands-down say that the styling of this runway show is one of my favourite ever.

If you don’t take anything away from this collection, I implore you to remember these headpieces.

Why was Dante such an iconic collection?

There are a series of reasons that intertwine with each other. Firstly, this was Lee’s first attempt at art direction. Secondly, it was his first runway collection with menswear. Thirdly, it was his first collection with more wearable pieces which garnered retail appeal. All these aspects like a chain reaction resulted in McQueen’s appointment as the creative director of the French haute couture house, Givenchy, later that year.

It can be said, and I will say that “Dante” in many ways made McQueen. His increase in art direction after the collection, his first real sale of pieces which provided him with the capital to work on more collections and his appointment at Givenchy can all be attributed to this singular day in March.

Link to watch the show:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMAqcOBEIGM&t=547s

References:

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“Highland Rape” FW 1995 Collection By Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen is a household name in fashion. When we think of McQueen we think “provocative”, “genius”, “rebellious”, “anti-establishment”. Now, there isn’t much room for successful or impactful defiance in the industry as we know it, neither is there an acceptance of the abnormal. However, Lee created it in such a way that couldn’t be refuted. He was an anomaly. In a series of articles beginning with this one, I will be discussing some of his most iconic collections. My reasoning behind starting with this show aside from personal preference is that I aim to abolish the negative light in which this show is perceived.

“Highland Rape” is the first collection that McQueen debuted at the British Fashion Council, thus revealing himself to the world due to its controversy and its meaning. A runway show that garnered worldwide critique and shame yet is now portrayed as one of the most creative and heartfelt runway shows in recent times. This shows background is one of pain and anguish for Lee as he explained that the show highlights the violence of the Highland Clearances and fashion’s appropriation of Scottish culture. However, journalists and reporters portrayed this show in a different light, one of misogyny and glorification of rape.

The title itself references the colonization and destruction of Scotland by England during the “Highland Clearances”, thus the use of wordplay by McQueen. Although, at the time most believed the name to simply be a reverence of rape.

As I watched the show I was fascinated by the emotions each runway outfit evoked in me. It was a mix of disgust and admiration. You could see the worn and torn pieces on the model’s bodies that signified the brutal colonization of Scotland by the brits.

This green dress caught my eye as it has a tear around the chest in the middle referencing the violation of Scotland by England. The shade of green and material also referenced Scotland’s colours. In the same manner, I was attracted to the dress itself the beautiful form it took as the model strutted down the walkway.

In this look, you can see the iconic bumster that later became a statement piece in many people’s collections. I would have to say this piece is what I love most about the look. I personally need a pair of bumsters myself. Similarly, there is also his signature tartan look on the neck which I would interpret as referencing the chokehold England had on Scotland during the “Highland Clearances”.

Some models walked as though they had been violated while others walked as though they owned the show. It created a juxtaposing effect. McQueen wanted to give these women the respect they deserved without taking away from the story of the show. You can see the signature use of Tartan he used referencing his Scottish heritage. There were instances in the show where the breasts of some models would be on display, to which the crowd would revel. Although to me, I saw it as a misunderstanding on the crowd’s part of what McQueen was trying to convey, which was boldness and strength as opposed to lust and desire. This reminded me of a statement McQueen made in an interview where he refuted the journalist’s accusations of misogyny by saying “If people do say I portray women like that, its because I want to portray the way society still sees women in some ways, not the way I see women.”

Shaun Leane, a master jeweller who worked with McQueen on the show even stated,

“What me and Lee did, was that we dressed those girls for battle, but in a beautiful, empowering way. They were warriors, beautiful humans identifying their delicacy, their romance and femininity, but at the same time McQueen made them strong and powerful”.

I believe this show to be iconic due to its impact on the industry at the time and now. Lee once said that he wouldn’t want to have a show that didn’t make the audience feel some emotion, be it disgust or joy and with this show he reaffirmed himself. What made me even more amazed by this show was that it was a statement rather than a sale pitch. These clothes were not going to be sold in stores, it was more of an artistic experiment than anything. Moreover, this likened to my belief in fashion as an art form and not a commodity. People called him a misogynist, perverse yet what he did with this show allowed designers down the line to experiment more with emotion, art and culture. It was a perfect synthesis of cultural history and clothing.

Citation:

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Fast Fashion’s 6 Part Relationship With Sustainability

“Fast Fashion”, a term associated with negativity and criticism, is a structure believed to be inherently flawed. “Fast fashion is a term used to describe a highly profitable and exploitative business model based on replicating catwalk trends and high-fashion designs, mass-producing them at low cost”. The main goal is to maximize profits and minimize costs, like any profit-based business model. However, this becomes a detriment when the line between ethical cost reduction and unethical cost reduction is blurred, when slave labour and overpollution become the norm.

Nevertheless, we live in a capitalist society where fast fashion has become the go-to avenue for clothes shopping for the middle and lower class. As a result, I will be organizing this shortlist of six fast-fashion brands from best to worst, because I believe that if you do have to shop fast fashion you might as well shop the more relatively sustainable brand.

Now, this list of brands are as such;

H&M (Best)
Uniqlo
Bershka
Zara
Urban Outfitters
Forever 21 (Worst)

I shall talk extensively about the best and worst brands out of the six and provide links for an in-depth analysis of each brand in order to inform yourselves on the topic.

H&M: They have an overall 3 out of 5 rating of “It’s a start” on the good on you website which measures brand sustainability. Likewise, they rank highly, with a 68% final score ranking on the fashion transparency index as of 2021. This index is an annual review of 250 of the world’s largest fashion brands and retailers ranked according to their level of public disclosure on human rights and environmental policies, practices and impacts in their own operations and in their supply chain. Now, this tells you how clear H&M is with the infrastructure of their brand which in turn displays their efforts to make distinct changes within their brand on all fronts including sustainability. Specifically, in the fashion transparency index, H&M ranks in the 81-90% range for governance responsible for highlighting the social and environmental impacts of a fashion brand. H&M uses some eco-friendly materials including recycled materials. It has fast fashion traits such as on-trend styles and regular new arrivals. It has a policy approved by CanopyStyle to prevent deforestation of ancient and endangered forests in its supply chain. It has set a science-based target to reduce greenhouse gas emissions generated from its own operations and supply chain but there is no evidence it is on track to meet its target.
Forever 21: They have an overall 1 out of 5 rating of “We avoid”. This speaks lengths on the type of brand and structure forever 21 is built on. They aren’t even properly ranked on the fashion transparency index because they do not communicate sufficient information about their environmental policies. As a result, you as a consumer remain unaware of the products and practices you buy into. Likewise, they have a very poor labour rating which explains their lack of care for their workers. None of its supply chains is certified by labour standards which ensure worker health and safety, living wages or other labour rights. It received a score of 0-10% in the Fashion Transparency Index. It publishes zero or very limited information about its supplier policies and audits. It does not disclose any information about forced labour, gender equality or freedom of association. There is no evidence it ensures payment of a living wage in its supply chain. It does not disclose any policies or safeguards to protect suppliers and workers in its supply chain from the impacts of COVID-19.

These two brands should serve as a scale of what to avoid and what to buy into when looking at fast fashion brands. Fast fashion is prevalent due to its accessibility, price and size inclusivity amongst other variables. Now, this list is not one you have to follow as buying into it is not necessarily wrong, especially if you’re unable to afford anything else. However, buying into it becomes an issue when you overconsume it. Fast fashion is becoming more sustainable as time goes by and more people raise concerns about overproduction and fashion’s impact on our environment. We may not have all the solutions yet, however, if we keep working towards a more eco-friendly and labour-friendly industry we will find it in the future.

Links:

Fashion Transparency Index Dataset 2020/2021:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1aIkl4-gcC24Fc9K41p8BFLszgf-c2x-8/edit#gid=1474833547

Fashion Transparency Index 2021:

Good On You Ratings:

http://www.goodonyou.eco

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Lonely Saturn

An abandoned planet, no signs of life,

The heart of this being painted with strife.

Cruel conditions. A harsh reality.

A call for help was sent into the galaxy.

Stargazing, head empty, nothing but a wish,

Longing for the feeling, a day of the solstice.

A comet may come, a comet may go,

The fate of this planet, a story untold.

Hear this here, hear this now, as you read this tale,

Saturn may be lonely, but only the stars will dictate love, lost or found.

– Zero

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Discussing Subversive Basics

The rebellious reform of basics. “Subversive Basics”, a term coined in April 2021 by Agus Panzoni (thealgorythm on tiktok) in a TikTok video. In this video, she explains the change in how we use basic clothing, such as tank tops, black dresses and so on. Simple garments becoming complex pieces of clothing. This change brought upon the fashion industry was said to be a reflection of the times. Uncertainty and anxiety become our rulers and the restructure of basic clothing was our escape. I will not be giving an in-depth look at this microtrend, however, this article will pose as an introduction and base insight into it.

@thealgorythm
The layering opportunities ✨ how would you style this? Top by @clarissa.larrazabal #fashiontrendpredictions #trendtok
♬ Caution – Kaytranada

Agus Panzoni Tiktok Video

Now, amongst other growing trends, I have to say that this trend caught my eye the most. You see multiple people every day attempting to make a simple knit top a masterpiece, utilizing creative skills never used by them till today in a bid to follow a trend. Subversive basics pose more utility than previously perceived. A trend said to rebel against the utility, bringing about artistic change to the fashion industry. Likewise, this same trend allows everyone to part take in it as it employs the basic clothes we all have in our wardrobes. In the same manner, that feature, in turn, creates a sense of community amongst all niches of the fashion industry, be it streetwear, luxury and anything in between. In a twist of fate, a rebel of utility becomes one of its biggest supporters.

Some of my favourite brands utilizing this trend are Hyein Seo, Spencer Badu and Dion Lee. These brands have turned basics into statement pieces in an unexpected shift.

I suggest you take a look at these brands if you plan on shopping for said trend. Although, I urge everyone to take a shot at making subversive basics themselves. It is an innovative way of elevating your style. As a result, I believe this trend is here to stay.

References/For More Information:

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Fashion Or Functionality? : Heliot Emil

Heliot Emil is a Danish luxury streetwear brand based out of Copenhagen. The brand got its name from the two founders’ great-grandfathers, as homage to him. Co-founded by the brothers Julius and Victor Juul in 2017. Julius being the creative director and art visionary of the brand. Meanwhile, Victor handles the business and operations of the brand. In recent years, the brand has become more popularly known for their innovative tailoring, rebellious approach to the fashion industry and their unique materials.

Heliot Emil became a brand known for pushing the limits of gendered clothing as they produce unisex clothing, while breaking the preconceptions of menswear. Menswear known for its “manly” tailoring and monotone cuts and fittings is challenged by this new era and Heliot Emil is taking the reins on this movement. Although, they are not the first to challenge the boundaries of “gender” in clothing, they are the first to do it in their specific approach. Heliot Emil is accomplishing this by using unheard of materials, oversized cuts, bizarre tailoring and questionable proportions to construe the image of man. “Liquid Metal”, a term for one of their more popular materials made into pants and a jacket released in 2020 that showcases the brands unique material creation ability.

Their ethos is one of innovation, supported by the belief that there will always be multiple ways to accomplish a task. They even went as far as to state that their work is open to interpretation by the consumers, leaving the final evaluation to us as an artist would do.

A line that will forever resonate with me, stated by Julius, “The Heliot Emil universe is not linear”. Possibly the best description of their brand and fashion as a whole, their approach to their label, consisting of blurring the lines between streetwear and high fashion. People tend to forget that fashion is at its base art, in this retail world, prioritizing sales over art, they are the malcontent. They continually push the boundaries with each collection seemingly shifting away from streetwear and closer to avant-garde and high fashion. However, this shift can be interpreted in a singular manner, it is more than that. It is a move to industrial elegance, one where functionality and fashion coexist, something rarely seen in the past and a merge achieved by few. The most similar instance I could think of A-COLD-WALL*.

In the first Fall Winter 17 collection we see the first collection by the Danish brand, straight off the bat we understand that it is a purely streetwear based brand. However, we progress to their Spring/Summer 18 collection and see military underlining’s and full military wear which changes our previous notion. Likewise, with their Spring/Summer 19 collection we see another shift to techwear, and a pattern emerges. The growth becomes evident. Fall/Winter 20 would be a defining collection as we now see the direction of the brand, the perfection of art in formality, “industrial elegance” arises. Now, Spring/Summer 21 we are fully immersed in this vision and moving with the Heliot Emil universe Julius Juul spoke of. It can be noted that with each collection, though the theme changed, the designs still improved and so did the tailoring and material.

Heliot Emil is not only a brand, it is a mindset. I believe it is the perfect amalgamation of skill and effort for a sole purpose. This purpose is change. Menswear has become stagnant, to be honest, it has been stagnant for a while. The patriarchy dominates the perception and mindset of too many, preventing the growth of menswear. We see anything outside of pants and tailored fits as feminine and taboo, thus, keeping us in a box, unchanged and unproductive. Heliot Emil possesses the progressive thinking and unique approach needed to break these chains of monotony. To reiterate, this is not overlooking previous brands that have made this effort, it is a highlight of a current brand attempting the same. Similarly, they possess the traits required to accomplish this feat, such as ; rejection of the retail, honesty, artistic mindset and experimentation. You seldom find a brand that possesses all these traits, now all they need is time and support.

I leave you with this question, what is fashion without functionality? I am not only referring to utility, but the concept of fashion to us as humans and its use to us.

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Deus Ex Machina

Change the only constant, Time the only measure

Chained to a system, our world view, our greatest oppressor

Experiencing a concept, envisioning a life

Trapped in a machine, no key in sight

Monotony is the tune, stagnancy the melody

Deus Ex Machina the thesis, a retired ideology

-Zero

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Elevating Your Style

I previously wrote an article that touched on how to build your style. In a full circle moment, I will be building on said previous article. Note, this will be based on my view of style and experiences. At this point you at least have a base level understanding of how to build your style and are looking to make advancements on that.

Ways To Elevate Your Style:

Define Your Aesthetic
Accessorize
Adopt Statement Pieces
Know Your Sizes
Proportions and Silhouettes
Understand and Apply Color Theory

Defining Your Aesthetic:

In fashion, aesthetic in simplest terms is how you choose to portray yourself and how you want to look to others in a specific niche or context with regards to dressing. How do you get dressed every day? You throw on random clothes and go out. Some may go a little further and choose to follow a trend which at least highlights their individuality to an extent.

Defining your aesthetic is paramount to elevating your style. The easiest way to understand this is when you define your look, you reduce your scope of clothes, spending and time. You are now able to spend more time on developing that look. It would be equivalent to an artist dropping out of school to pursue their art fully, you eliminate the distractions that were hindering your growth. Be it Rick Sith Lord or Y2K Fiend, your style will drastically improve once you set your eyes on a look and stick with it.

Accessorize:

Accessories! You see them everywhere, on everything and employed by everyone. It can be defined as a thing which can be added to something else in order to make it more useful, versatile, or attractive. Key words, “versatile” and “attractive”. Two things with which you strive to in your style journey. From rings to hats, scarves to glasses. Accessories give your outfit completeness while raising the level of your outfits.

There is not much to talk about regarding accessories. I advise you to experiment with which accessories you like. However, keep in mind, colors and patterns. Accessories are meant to add to an outfit, but they should also match the colors and patterns of your outfit. It can be a signature accessory or multiple accessories, its your choice.

Adopt Statement Pieces:

A statement piece is simply an attractive or unique piece of your outfit. It does not have to fulfill any criteria aside from those, it could be something as small as an oddly shaped ring to Maison Margiela Tabi Boots. Statement pieces are normally only one piece for each outfit as the term “statement” would be redundant otherwise.

Once you adopt statement pieces your outfits and personal style rise by a level. It is what differentiates a basic outfit from a sophisticated one. Remember to build these pieces over time as they tend to be pricey. Don’t be rushed to get multiple items, style is not built overnight.

Know Your Sizes:

Getting the wrong sized clothing item could destroy your outfit, in the same way that getting the right sized clothing item could make your outfit. Proportions are aesthetically pleasing to the human eye. That is why you could have an extremely questionable outfit, but if it fits you well no one thinks twice about it.

I cannot emphasize how important it is to know your sizes. It saves you heartbreak, money and time. You don’t have to return pieces for not fitting well, lose money on clothes that don’t fit well or waste time figuring out what size a clothing piece would be for you because you have your sizes down. It literally gives you peace of mind while improving your looks.

Proportions and Silhouette:

Proportions refer to how your clothes should be proportioned to your body. In as much as that is the case, in order to elevate your style with proportions you need to aim for an unbalanced proportion. Why? Simply because it is appealing to the eye, which an important aspect of style.

There is a rule of thirds regarding proportions. It says,” With regards to proportion, look at yourself as cut in thirds from your shoulders to your toes. You want either one-third on top and two-thirds on bottom (as in a shirt and pants) or two-thirds on top and one-third on bottom (as in a dress). Never divide yourself in half!”

Silhouette simply states the basic outline of the body or the garment that it takes shape in. Wear clothes that compliment your body structure, its as simple as that. This will in turn advance your style.

Bloody Osiris: A good examples of proportions

Understand And Apply Color Theory:

Understanding how to combine colors and wear them individually is one of the simplest concepts people confuse themselves with. It is often due to their impatience or lack of effort.

There are five color combinations:

Analogous: colors are hues that are adjacent to (next to) each other on the color wheel.
Complementary: colors are colors exactly opposite each other on the color wheel.
Triadic: colors are three colors spaced equally apart on the color wheel.
Tonal: colors are different shades of the same hue, the same color.
Monochromatic: color scheme is similar to tonal but even more selective in color.

I won’t go in depth on this topic as there is a site that perfectly explains this better than I could have. I will have it in the references. Likewise, as I was saying, once you have these color basics down, not only will you be able to boost your style but you’ll also increase your fashion knowledge and understanding by degrees.

Now, with these tips and insight down, get back to the drawing board! Experiment. Create. Discover.

References:

Color Theory: https://howtowearfashion.com/styling-tips/how-to-use-the-color-wheel-when-getting-dressed
Proportions & Silhouette:
https://fashionmostwanted.com/2015/03/14/decoding-the-fashion-term-silhouette/
https://www.marieclaire.com/fashion/tips/a4856/understanding-proportions/

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Black Merle: Renegades of Fashion

Launched in 2016 by founder and designer Terry Shin, Black Merle is a brand that tackles anti-fashion like none other. Black Merle is a noun defined as a dark-coated dog with irregular streaks and specks. Through their apocalyptic, neo-maximalist theme of “more is more” as stated by Shin himself they succeeded in releasing fashion from the shackles of its definition.

With an emphasis on usability, recreation and deconstruction they are a new take on anti-fashion with a military-like theme never seen before. What I mean is, although the titans of anti-fashion Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo defined what anti-fashion is today, Terry Shin took said definition and dare I say…elevated it with Black Merle.

A Vancouver and Seoul based brand that prides itself on its ability to customize and its emphasis on blackness, though these two attributes may narrow their variety in the eyes of some, they have been able to break the preconceived notion everyone had of them with their newer collections. Previously, with their FW 17 collection, “Incarnate”, I could liken them more to Takahiro Miyashita The Soloist, Undercover and Raf Simons with a focus on military and tactical wear. This is not to say that they did not properly execute this collection, their clothes were literal pieces of art. I am only stating the relation to the ethos of this collection with other brands. I particularly loved his first collection more as he incorporated the most black pieces into it.

However, with their newer garments of F/W 19 and F/W 20 they were able to embody the values they stood by. Displaying out of the world clothing that cannot be likened to any designer past or present. Seeing the relative fame they have garnered in the past two years, Black Merle has just begun and there is no sign of them stopping. Terry Shin has his hand on the pulse of the industry and is unwilling to let go.

FW 19
“Channeling transformability, customizability and interchangeability.”

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Post Archive Faction: Renegades of Fashion

Post Archive Faction, a name that is currently being echoed in the fashion scene. From their deconstructed garments, futuristic set designs and anti-fashion persona they hit the floor running with their launch in 2018. A Korean based menswear label designed by Dongjoon Lim and Sookyo Jeong. Dongjoon Lim started out as a user experience designer for fashion companies, after studying industrial and spatial design. He later taught himself menswear design, incorporating his experience and degree into his garments. Specializing in avant-garde sportswear and futuristic outerwear.

“Rejecting the conventions of fashion”, the title of their Fall Winter 2018 collection that brought them into the limelight. A rebellious presence, their induction into the fashion scene, their F/W 2018 collection signaled the death of the old fashion norms and a new beginning.

“Centered around disassembly and assembly, the title of their Fall Winter 2019 collection continued with their previous theme of fashion deconstruction and rebellion. They seamlessly combined mismatched proportions, asymmetrical pieces and utility into this collection, breaking down preconceived notions of what fashion is and could be.

“Filled with intentionally damaged designs”, the title of their Spring Summer 2020 collection represented the broken and fragmented human. A representation of the fragility of man, physically, emotionally and perhaps even mentally. The blueprint of the pieces follows the brands creed of fabricating new structural formula through evolving archives.

“Exploring physical movements through function, asymmetric form and collapsing shapes”, their Spring Summer 2021 collection can be seen as the epitome of avant-garde sportswear. With a stronger approach to the unknown, they are able to incorporate practical clothing into moving art pieces which caters to a greater target audience. The set design can be understood as a treadmill, with a cloak draped over it to portray movement in clothing. Though that is my individual interpretation of it.

In 2021, PAF has become a semi-finalist for LVMH’s prize for young designers which notes the first instance their work has been recognized on a global scale for its beauty. I believe this is the first in a plethora of awards and recognitions for the brand. Post Archive Faction continues till this day to push the norms, perspectives and definition of fashion with its outlandish designs, creative pieces and otherworldly set designs. In the short span of 4 years, PAF has come a long way, and as a big fan of the brand myself, it is only natural I dedicate this article to them.

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Below The Surface

Lacking an identity,

Your presentation a farce, a culmination of strangers;

Drifting through this world, a shell of a man.

Acceptance your jail,

Impressions your warden,

Never knowing how it feels to create or imagine.

Never displaying yourself true, in fear of your environment.

Do you enjoy this? Equating validation to your happiness?

Dishonesty your elation, Truth your sorrow.

Living through other people, while dying on your own?

This isn’t life, and this isn’t living,

But can you afford to start again, from the beginning?

– Zero

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Need for Thrift!

Thrifting in its simplest and only form is buying clothing from a thrift store. A thrift store is store selling second-hand clothes and other household goods, typically to raise funds for a charitable institution.

People often mistake the reason behind thrifting and how it is essential to community. Thrifting is always viewed through a close-minded lens; people believe they are above buying clothes that may or may not have been used previously. However, those same individuals shop from fast-fashion stores that employ child labour and dismal facilities to produce poor quality clothing. ‘To thrift’ is literally defined as “the quality of using money and other resources carefully and not wastefully”.

7 Reasons to Thrift:

Affordability:

The main reason fast fashion has such a chokehold on society is due to its ability to offer clothing at such low prices. When you look at the class system, 26.2% of the worlds population is in the lower class and almost half of the world (48% to be specific) is in the middle class. Not many people can afford to spend money on good quality clothes, so they do not bother searching in the first place. Although, thrift stores are known to be affordable as well as providing clothes that last you years in contrast to fast fashion clothes that last you months at a time at most. In the long term you save more money shopping from thrift stores.

2. Variety:

Millions of people worldwide donate their clothes to thrift stores every year, from all walks of life. As a result, you end up with the largest variety of clothing from luxury to streetwear. When you thrift, you are open to any and every clothing items. This allows you employ different aesthetics and styles allowing for a steady and balanced wardrobe. From staple pieces to basics, all and many more can be found at your local thrift. As someone who tends to employ different looks and styles, thrifting has allowed me to broaden my horizons in those sectors.

3. Environmentally Sound:

Due to the sparing nature of thrifting, what you realize is its positive impact on the environment. As you buy second-hand clothes, you reduce the amount of clothes needed to be produced by stores which directly affects the amount of pollution resulting from the production of clothes. Disposing of clothes takes a toll on the environment, but with thrifting you can pass down those clothes to other people who would want it. Thus, reducing waste in the process. By choosing to thrift, you are directly saving the planet.

4. Uniqueness:

Currently, in this generation especially, one standard we hold ourselves to is uniqueness, the ability to be different from the crowd. Thrifting is the easiest way to achieve that goal clothing wise. By thrifting you are going to find one-of-a-kind clothes and unknown clothing straight from other people’s wardrobes which you can then incorporate into your own. It is a jackpot of the unknown and unexpected. If you want to find your personal style, the thrift store should be your go to.

5. Supporting Your Community:

Thrift stores exist to provide, retail stores exist to profit. In thrift store, majority of the time you can sleep well knowing that your purchase is contributing to the wellness of others or the society. Most thrift stores donate a percentage of their earnings to different charity organizations which look after the community and its people. Choosing to thrift is choosing to make a difference.

6. Experimentation:

Thrift stores sell a variety of things, and clothes are not their only expertise. They sell fabric, paint, equipment etc. All the things you would need in order to carry out your very own clothing design or creation. This makes for a remarkably interesting time after the thrift.

7. Finding Steals:

I personally love finding high end clothing at thrift stores, especially being into high fashion it is an affordable way to dabble in that realm. In thrift stores you see various brands, it could be luxury, streetwear or your every day fast fashion. However, what is important is the prices are always marked down compared to what you would find in your average high fashion store like Prada. Now, I am not saying you will always find steals or such brands, but the likelihood is high. You risk nothing by going and finding out.

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How to Build Your Style

What is Style?

Style in its most base definition is “a manner of doing something”. Now, in the fashion world your ‘style’ is a reference to how you personally dress, it is an art form with which a person displays their passions and aesthetics using clothing as its outlet.

How To Build Your Style?

1.Study Your Wardrobe:

Your wardrobe is the simplest way to understand your own style, look carefully at the kind of clothes you spend your money on and you will notice a trend begins to form. There are many aesthetics people gravitate towards for multiple reasons. What is yours? A way tell which clothes you love is when you see yourself wearing a certain item regularly. I personally have noticed I love dark clothing and dark fashion and I make it a point to not stray from that as it is what I love, never compromise for validation. Turn whichever aesthetics and clothing you love into something other people will love.

Likewise, in fashion there are basic clothing items every wardrobe should have. These basics build the framework for your style. Some basics I recommend are as follows;

White Button Up Shirt
Basic Jeans (Levi’s)
Trench Coat
Denim Jacket
White Sneakers
Skirt
Basic Flats
Black/Brown Boots
Blazer
Work Pants
Black and White T-Shirt

2. Practicality Is The Way

When it comes to building a wardrobe, especially on a budget you have to remain practical. Staple pieces aside, you should not spend money on an item you don’t see yourself wearing, or is not in-line with your environment. An example would be buying ten pairs of shorts knowing you live in a cold climate with almost no chance of heat. Being practical saves you a lot of stress, mentally and financially.

3. Pay Attention To Your Surroundings

Gather inspiration from your surroundings, Pinterest for example is a wonderful place to look through mood boards and pick out outfits you would wear. Recreating outfits is looked down on a lot, however, no individual is innocent in that regards, from famous mathematicians to artists. Originality is built from incorporation. Recreating outfits should not be your only discovering your style, neither should it be your primary, it is simply an accessory to use. Likewise, you should also keep in mind what people wear around you and decide whether it is something you would wear yourself, if so then take note of it and build off of that.

4. Desist From Trends

Keep in mind, your goal is to build your style and not validation. Fashion Trends die every day, all it amounts to is endless financial debt, momentary validation and loss of identity. Your ability to dress should never be based on what society deems acceptable, unless you have already lost without beginning. Fashion is art, art is expression of self and that is a mindset that has gotten me through the times of trends. However, discovering a trend you like and incorporating it into your style is fine if you do it for yourself. You just need to keep in mind your goal.

5. Experiment, Experiment, Experiment

Every great thing in this world of man was born from curiosity. Experimentation leads to evolution. Granted you may stumble, you are only human so it is expected. Although, continuity is your only true reality. Try out new outfits, never heard of clothing combinations, merge outfits, ideas and aesthetics to your hearts content. This is the step into building your style that never ends. Till this day I am still building my own style with this in mind, it never ends but it gets infinitely easier.

Sources

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A Superficial Existence

A Life without direction,

A Life without substance,

A Life without Joy,

A Life without Sorrow.

Stagnant and deteriorating in this simulation titled, “Life”.

We give labels to this being, trying to quantify it in any form that gives us purpose

Education, Occupation, Positions and Relationships.

Numbers to determine our worth, Standards to determine our fate

The “man” dictating our life on a schedule

Study, Pause, Work, Repeat.

Convincing ourselves that there is meaning behind these actions, all leading to a greater goal.

This endless cycle, with the only end result we’re sure of.

The sweet release of death

The truth is without all these machinations, titles and definitions we are naked

Brought bare to this world, for what reason though? If I may ask

Hunger, Famine, Strife, War?

Grief, Heart ache, Pain and Depression?

With infinite possibilities there is infinite destructibility

So, what is the goal?

Like the depths of the sea, unknown.

-Zero

Forlorn

Fingers intertwine in a myriad of thoughts,

Emotions arise from previously forgot

Two bodies roam in search of a resolution,

Lost to Aphrodite, stuck in delusion

An indescribable sensation roams their being, A lovestruck pair, a bittersweet feeling

A fate ordained by the stars, a joke gone too far

In the space of hope, despair awaits

What became of those two, but a loveless fate.

-Zero

The Void

Silence creeps up on you, no sound to be found.

In this noiseless space, where even breath loses its place

Is this real or am I imagining things? Slowly losing my hold, as reality sinks.

I’m trapped in my head, my thoughts my own prison

Lost in my mind, I search for an escape

An endless cycle of love

An endless cycle of hate

Succumbing to life, a victim of the system

Will I ever escape this trap? No one knows this conviction, be it joy or sorrow.

-Zero